Saxman and Salmon in Ketchikan

A huge draw for me on this journey was a guided tour of Saxon Native Village, one of several “totem capitals of Alaska.”

Many of the totem poles on display at the park today were carved in the 1940s to preserve native culture, and they are replicas of the original poles left in abandoned villages by Native Alaskans. Each pole tells unique stories through intricate carvings and vibrant colors. In addition to the 11 on the Totem Way, there are 14 more near the clan house. Of the 25, the Eagle Beaver Pole is repeated three times, and there are four Totem Guards on either side of the steps. Outside of the carving center, where we caught a glimpse of the celebrated carver, Nathan Jackson, lies a “sleeping totem.” (I would love to tell you more, but the guide was clearly reluctant to say anything about it and I don’t want to be the revealer of private knowledge.)

Some things I learned:

• Inanimate objects are forbidden on poles and all of the figures represent living beings.
• Among the Haida poles you will see many whale carvings as the Haida Indians have a spiritual connection with the whale. They believe the whale’s display of loyalty and obedience amongst themselves parallels the values of their clan system.
• The Tribal House was traditionally used as a communal house for several clans or families of a tribe. The Totems inside are family poles that tell the history of the clan or family living inside.
• The Tlingit of Saxman are the Saanya Kwaan, or “People of the Southeast Wind”.
• The “low man on the totem pole,” isn’t an insult; the bottom figure is often the most important one – and usually, isn’t a man.

Totem poles are often not meant to be clear in their meaning (a very non-Western attitude). The story of the pole is primarily shared between the person commissioning the carving of the pole and the carver. Upon completion, it is up to the owner whether to share the story. (To my mind, this “secrecy” is an example of intellectual property within a cultural perspective.) This explains why most of the poles have no informational signage. To my mind, this encourages visitors to buy materials at the (pretty nice) gift shop on the grounds. I think such materials are excellent souvenirs, much better than a mug or shot glass.

Totem poles serve a variety of purposes. They are not only artistic expressions but also symbols of family lineage, tribal heritage, and the natural world. The animals carved onto the poles often represent the clan’s totem or the spirit guides that are believed to protect or guide the people. The significance of each animal varies depending on the cultural context and the specific animal’s traits, behaviors, and role in the ecosystem. In this way, totem poles serve as a visual language, communicating the spiritual beliefs and connection to nature that is central to these cultures.

Note that you do not need to take a tour here. You can walk to Saxman Native Village 2-3 miles along an oceanfront path, take a public bus ($2 — cash only — at time of writing) near Berth 2 of the cruise terminal, or catch a quick taxi ride (approx. $15 one way). The village welcomes independent travelers with a self-guided tour option for just USD 5 per person.

The Totem Pole Art is magnificent. It boggles my mind how each is carved by hand and I enjoyed trying to figure out which animal was represented on the poles. Not being Native, the symbols aren’t easy to decipher. (A place where I really would have appreciated signage, even just the names of the totems). The street that the Totem Poles are on display is on an incline with a paved sidewalk that was easy to navigate. The Clan House features a magnificent carving of a Beaver on the outside and inside are four carved house posts as well as another large panel carving inside the building. Outside the Clan House are two short, gravel lined, walking paths through the rainforest that surrounds the park. Along these paths are the native trees, shrubs, flowers, plants, berries, & more that is found in the rainforest.

This wikipedia entry has a list of all of the poles on site: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saxman_Totem_Park

We also went through Ketchikan with its National Historic Landmark District. Alaska’s first city and the salmon capital of the world, we had a chance to stop and visit a small park where we watched salmon swimming upstream. The salmon run is a primal moment of deep connection to nature and her rhythms. Here is a video I took — no jumping, but you can get a sense of how many fish were doing their thing.

Otherwise, there is Creek Street, once the town’s red-light district. The area is distinct for its brothels built on stilts over a salmon-filled creek. Today, it’s a colorful stretch of shops and galleries with a few small museums that tell the story of Ketchikan’s salty past. Otherwise, the city (8,000 year-round residents makes this a very small city) is primarily a collection of jewelry stores (56, according to our guide) most of which are owned and operated by the cruise ships and tour companies.