There are some aspects of Marrakesh that feel like Venice, although the two cities are vastly different. Each boasts of a rich history rooted within a strong foundation of trade, proud people descended from multiple distinctly different cultural backgrounds, crumbling beauty, and twisting, winding passages, akin more to warrens than streets.
The similarities pretty much end there.
Venice is a place where the different cultures have co-existed, inter-married, and re-imagined themselves so thoroughly that they have become themselves, Venetians. With its lack of access to motor vehicles, it’s a profoundly quiet city always held within the ever-changing arms of the sea. Venice, in my memories, has a softness, a kind of permanent sfumato.
Marrakesh is all hard lines and noise. The smart visitor walks about with a heightened awareness of the many wheeled vehicles barreling as fast as possible from one place to another, with no regard for traffic lines, colors, or rules. Parents hold children standing behind them on scooters, elegantly burqa‘d women with designer sunglasses and gloves weave in and out of traffic, young men in rubber sandals perch on donkey carts full of produce bound for the medina, and helmets are rarely seen anywhere. Even the tea seller moves faster than other walkers, stopping only when a shopkeeper lifts a languid hand, then deftly pouring tea into a waiting mug from a vacuum flask adding sugar, and handing it over at almost the same moment as accepting the required coin.
Here, one of the largest souks in the world is a true labyrinth of streets and stores offering everything from the handmade to cheap factory produced, sometimes in the same place. Paying any attention can have you surrounded by eager sellers in a heartbeat. Fortunately, a “no” (laa in Arabic, or non in French) is acceptable (if a bit abrupt, add shukran — thank you to be more polite). In theory, the souk is pedestrian-only, but locals move through on bicycles, scooters, and small motorcycles. Goods are delivered from pushcarts. No one gets away with not buying something.
If Islamic/Moroccan architecture is of interest, there are many places where you can fall into its glory. The most famous, and popular are the Bahia Palace, Madrasah Ben Youssef, El Badi Palace, and Saadian Tombs. But we found doorways and local mosques that were as exquisitely designed and actively used. Stepping into a saint’s tomb, you can recline on an ancient handwoven rug and let the heat from your body seep into the elaborately tiled walls, perhaps while meditating on how Islamic saints were ordinary people who fed the poor, housed the blind, and taught women to read.
The heat can be overwhelming, especially if are a former mushroom from the PNW. Tiled coolness isn’t always available, but there are many gardens to enjoy throughout the city. Most famous and eye-poppingly colorful is Yves Saint Laurent’s Majorelle Garden. The garden combines Arabic and Art Deco influences and features fountains, exotic cacti, and distinctive cobalt blue walls and structures. Le Jardin Secret hides in the heart of the medina and features two distinct areas: an exotic garden with plants from around the world and an Islamic garden designed with ancient principles of balance and spirituality. Out by the airport are the Menara Gardens with its 12th century artificial lake reflecting the glory of the Atlas Mountains and the centuries-old olive trees surrounding it.
The air for the first few days was “thick” — not dusty or smoggy, just not clear. When it did on our 3rd day, we were treated to the sight of the magnificent Atlas Mountains. We suddenly understood why everyone asked if we were going to visit them. Next trip.
We stayed in two places, the Park Hyatt Marrakesh and the Riad Al Rimal, vastly different from one another. The Park Hyatt was for the occasion of J’s birthday, and, once again, thank goodness for Hyatt’s excellent loyalty program: we stayed for free instead of paying $800/ night. We were given an upgrade to a “Park Suite” on the upper floor, facing a large, landscaped garden with a lovely view of the Atlas Mountains and a private balcony. It was perfect for sitting outside and reading in the evening. The spa is heavenly with a huge heated indoor pool, a hot tub with cabanas, a relaxation room and terrace, a massive gym complex, men’s and women’s hammam rooms and cold plunge tubs, and a co-ed steam room and sauna. We enjoyed one of the best non-therapeutic massages we’ve ever had. The outdoor pool is also spectacular, although we ended up not actually swimming during our stay (it was warm enough, we just didn’t feel like it when we were free to do so.) This is a gorgeous hotel, one that visually engages with the Moroccan culture in many ways.
The downsides were mainly that we were at least 20 minutes from the city, in an area under major development. Long taxi rides and waits for taxis were a part of every day and required an extra level of planning. If you didn’t want to be poolside, or golf, there wasn’t much else to do. This is a place that requires you to move into a very low gear.
Pictures of the grounds by me:
The Riad Al Rimal & Spa is very different.We’d booked a Standard Double and it was tiny, barely big enough for the double and small side tables. No place to sit, or unpack our bags except the bed. The bathroom was clean and also tiny; the wardrobe adequate. There was no AC, fortunately open windows provided a cooling breeze. Not very safe though. We were offered a special on their hammam and massage package that wasn’t a very good deal price or technique wise. (J’s person clearly was in training, left early, and didn’t take direction [a little firmer, please] at all.) We’d been looking forward to spending time in the pool, but a family of four basically filled it up entirely and after an hour we gave up and went back to our room. Lots of stairs — this is not a place to say if you have bad knees or mobility issues.
It was, however, located in the heart of the medina and ideal for getting into where most tourists want to explore. The price was very good, and it was exceptionally quiet. (Pictures from Trip Advisor.)
