The next day was oriented around a morning trip to Delos, a UNESCO World Heritage site and birthplace of the Greek gods Apollo and Artemis. Although it’s relatively unknown to many tourists, Delos is one of the most important mythological, historical, and archaeological sites in all of Greece.
Delos was once a holy sanctuary and some of the ruins — ancient stone huts — date back to the 3rd millennium BC. From 900 BC to 100 AD, the island served as a center of worship for the god Apollo and eventually it became a site of religious pilgrimage. Mythology has it that because of Hera’s jealousy of Zeus and his human lover, Queen Leto, she ordered all lands to shun Leto, giving her no place to give birth. Zeus asked Poseidon to find a secret, safe place for Leto to give birth. She ended up on the island of Delos, and, since the island is not connected to the land, she was able to safely give birth to her twins, Artemis and Apollo. From that moment onward, the small, rocky island was declared by Callimachus — in the third century BC — to be “the most sacred of all islands” of Ancient Greece and was devoted to Apollo. It was said to be “bathed in the unique light” of Zeus’ son. No one is allowed to stay overnight on the island except for caretakers and archaeologists who continue to uncover its ancient secrets. Those who would like to explore the island and pay tribute to its magnificent history are allowed to do so, but only as part of day trips. Bring water, sunscreen, and comfortable walking shoes. Delos has zero commercial development – no cafes, no gift shops, no shade. It’s just you, the ruins, and the Mediterranean sun.
The ferry ride is about 20 minutes from Mykonos, and there are a number of lovely things to see. The Terrace of the Lions is the most famous and most photographed item. Terrace makes it seem more imposing than the four statues are. These Lions once guarded the Sanctuary of Apollo and the Sacred Lake (the supposed birthplace of the Twins). Originally there were a dozen, and those that remain are reproductions. The originals are in the island’s museum. The lions are faced East towards the Sacred Lake of Delos where Greek scholars of the time believed Apollo had been born. Wikipedia reports that one of the original lions hangs over the main gate of the Venetian Arsenal, but I can’t confirm that independently.
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Other things to see include:
The Koinon of Poseidon. One of the most important sites on the island, visitors can see where the famous statue of Aphrodite and Pan was found (its now a permanent exhibit at the National Archaeological Museum of Athens). The Koinon was Complex of courts and rooms of The Poseidon League of Βeirut, a guild which was both a religious and a commercial center for merchants and shipowners from Beirut. Baal, whom they principally worshipped, was identified with Poseidon. A door on the southern side let into a short hall leading to a court with a colonnade on its western side, opening into 4 small shrines devoted to the deities of the homeland- Baal/Poseidon, Astarte/Aphrodite, Eshmun/Asklepios and the goddess Roma.
The House of Dionysus. Home to a unique mosaic depicting the god Dionysus riding a tiger.
The artwork depicts the god Dionysus, the deity of wine, celebration, and ecstasy, as a winged figure (often interpreted as a divine daimon or spirit) riding a striped tiger or panther. The scene is rich with symbolism: Dionysus wears an ivy wreath and carries a thyrsus, while the great feline is adorned with a necklace of vines and grapes. Its technical mastery is what makes this mosaic a true masterpiece as it employs the opus vermiculatum technique, composed of thousands of tiny, precisely cut tesserae—some measuring just one millimeter square—crafted from glass, stone, and terracotta. This meticulous method enabled the artist to create extraordinary shading, intricate detail, and a vibrant, three-dimensional realism that rivals the finest ancient paintings. To protect this fragile treasure, the original mosaic has been carefully relocated to the Archaeological Museum of Delos. A replica remains in situ.
You can also visit the House of Kleopatra where headless statues of the husband and wife still stand. Known for its stunning mosaics, this site is believed to have belonged to a prominent figure, possibly Cleopatra, which adds intrigue to its allure. As you wander through the remnants of this ancient house, you can marvel at the intricate designs that once adorned the floors and walls, transporting you back to a time of opulence and artistry.
The Ancient Theater of Delos is an impressive complex which could at one time house around 5,000 spectators. It was built in the 3rd century AD, and had stunning views of the sea and the harbor. This post’s image is of the Theater.
The House of Masks is near the cistern and consists of four homes. A large pool, carved in natural granite, supplied water to the block of houses. Built around 150-100 BC, this luxurious house was decorated with exceptional mosaics and frescoes.
Delos is essentially an entire ancient city frozen in time. Visiting here, we have the chance to walk through what was once the most sacred island in the ancient Greek world. In many ways, it reminds us of our time in Paestum, another city devoted entirely to its temples. Ordinary people lived here, supporting the priest(ess)es who conducted the sacred rites, while dispensing oracles, wisdom, and healing, each according to their Deity’s sphere of influence or interest.
