Venice-Simplon Orient Express: thoughts

For purists, the VSOE is not the “original” Orient Express which was a route, not a specific set of carriages. The first “Express d’Orient” left Paris enroute to Vienna on June 5, 1883; the first non-stop train to Istanbul left Paris on June 1, 1889. In 1919, after the First World War the opening of the Simplon Tunnel allowed the introduction of a more southerly train via Milan, Venice and Trieste known as the Simplon Orient Express. This train ran in addition to continuing services on the old route. The Treaty of Saint-Germain contained a clause requiring Austria to accept this train and it soon became the most important rail route between Paris and Istanbul.

The 1930’s was the golden age of the train. Railway travel was the most common method of covering great distances. The Orient Express acquired its reputation for comfort and luxury, carrying sleeping-cars with permanent service and dinning cars known for the quality of their cuisine. Favorite clients included royalty, diplomats, business people and the bourgeoisie. Agatha Christie’s famous mystery novel was set on the Simplon Orient Express.

However, The Simplon Orient Express was replaced in 1962 by a slower train called the Direct Orient Express, which included one direct sleeping-car from Paris to Istanbul just three times a week. The last Direct Orient Express left Paris on 19 May 1977.

In 1982, American entrepreneur James Sherwood bought two of the original carriages at an auction in Monte Carlo. Over the next few years, Sherwood purchased 35 sleeper, restaurant and bar carriages and restored them to their original glory. Today, the VSOE operates using most of the original luxury 17 carriages including sleeping cars, dining cars, a bar car from Orient Express golden years.

An excellent, accurate, history of the Orient Express, in all of its variations is at Seat 61.

Information to follow up on:
You can read a brief history of each individual VSOE Pullman Car, worth checking as the history is fascinating, and many of the cars have links with famous trains or famous people.

Do you want to take your own Trip of a Lifetime?

Want to just have a taste? The British Pullman trains offer a lunch trip (from £470), afternoon tea (from £340) evening dinner trip (around £635) and other seasonal options. Based on what we experienced, the food and wine are truly excellent and although these trips are an extravagance, they are probably worth it!

There are a few downsides to traveling the VSOE.

First: it’s expensive. At about 5000(pounds) per couple for an overnight journey of roughly 27 hours (leaving London at 9am, arriving Venice at 7pm the next day), this is a journey most of us can’t make without a lot of consideration. This is for a cabin; Suites and Grand Suites start at (heart-stoppingly) 12,000(pounds).

Second: By day two a lot of the glamour has worn off, and you are basically riding a train all day. Yes, the regular food offerings are yummy and distracting, but there are hours of nothing to do but look out the window. Moreover, a lot of the route we took was not through lovely visuals. This was far too common:

Third: Other than the meals, which are included in the fare, everything is Very Expensive. The glass of champagne we had in the bar car was 25eu each. John’s virgin mohitos were 18eu. There are souvenirs and jewelry to be purchased, but all were twice as expensive as the same items (albeit not VSOE-branded) available elsewhere. You can drink as much water, tea, and coffee as you like, everything else will come with a fee.

Fourth: If you have any mobility issues, you will be Very Unhappy. We don’t, being generally hale, and we found ourselves often clutching the walls for stability as we walked the corridors. The train rocks from side to side when it hits anything like speed and there are plenty of bumps and shakes. Changing clothes can be challenging

Fifth: Similar to number four above, if you can’t sleep with noise, you will be Very Unhappy. There is a lot of racket and although I find it soothing, I can see how others would have difficulty.