Hiding out in Vila do Conde was hardly a chore, but being away from home always presents challenges one way or another. For example, since we’d never been here before we didn’t have any notions of where we might want to eat. We ended up eating out a lot during our visit to Vila do Conde . . . which makes sense since a lunch was the First Cause. Plus, the place we were staying, while nice, had no amenities related to “long stay” or residential guests, so we weren’t having meals in our room. While nothing was quite like Occulto, we have stories and even recommendations!

Our lunch get-together was at Europa, which is just across the street from the beach, making it an excellent place to stop in when spending a day in and around the sand. With an airy outdoor (covered) area and gorgeous inner setting with a full bar, they attract a wide variety of people. Good prices and a varied menu only add to the positives. Service was poor — we waited ages for our meal and basically had to flag down people to order dessert and more drinks — which detracts from an otherwise pretty good meal.

Our dinner was at the main hotel restaurant, Mosteiro. Hotel restaurants can be hit or miss — lots of text telling you how great they are, but the execution can be lacking. Not so in this case. They chose to emphasize traditional Portuguese cuisine with some interesting additions not specific to the north. We started with the couvert: three types of bread (corn, rye, and seeded) accompanied by olive oil and butter and codfish fritters. All were great, but the fritters were pretty much the best we’ve had since we arrived. Starter options include Breaded Wild Shrimp with Almonds, Eggs with Smoked Ham, Asparagus and Wild Mushrooms, Stewed Broad Beans with Chorizo, and Goat Cheese Puffs with Pumpkin Jam. We tried the latter and were, again, deeply happy with the combination of savory and sweet (pumpkin jam is a big thing here, and we love it). Main dishes varied between fish (such as lobster rice or grilled sea bass) and meats (such as beef entrecote, roast goat, or rack of lamb). We shared the Black Pork “Secretos” — a kind of meat found here in Portugal — and were thrilled by the succulent meat, cooked tenderly, accompanied by rice. We had no room for dessert, but they offer a nice selection that will please almost everyone. This hotel understands that guests may be there for several meals and does a good job of offering variety.

A late lunch/ early dinner was at Romando, an exquisite sushi place right next to the river. The odd hour meant the “kitchen” was closed, as in, no hot/cooked food was available. We shrugged and said, ok, and ordered several rolls and a mixed plate of nigiri. It came promptly, along with a lovely chat with the manager (also serving) about the food and its origins. Much like the surprise of sushi in Evora, we had a grand time. Lightly rice-wine-flavored rice held up superbly fresh fish.

Our final dinner was at Concerto. We were admittedly flailing a bit for options at this point, but poking at reviews and maps in the area led us to this sort-of fusion French Portuguese restaurant and we figured if nothing else it could make for a delightful story. Turns out, it also made for a great meal! As far as we can tell Concerto is a passion project of French immigrants who came to rest in Vila do Conde and are making a go of a restaurant. We started there with a unique deconstructed burrata; the burrata was creamed and mixed with a tomato reduction and pesto, and served up with fresh flatbread. It was unusual and super tasty. We ended up sharing an entree of a …er,… sort of a beef bourguignon confit? thing? A little hard to describe, but for all that it didn’t look like a classic bourguignon the meat was fall-apart tender and just as flavorful as you’d expect. As much as we do enjoy “classic” Portuguese restaurants, breaking up a run of the usual fare is always welcome, and Concerto fit the bill perfectly.

Historically, cod was fished in the distant waters around Greenland and Newfoundland. In the 14th century, England and Portugal’s trade treaties exchanged salt for codfish. Salting the fish preserved it for those long voyages, a technique they learned from the Norwegians whose Viking forbearers had been doing so since the 800s. For centuries this fish was a food exclusive to the royal house and aristocracy. In the 16th century, a business network established by Portuguese, Basque, and British ship-owners began to bring back larger quantities of the fish and it’s use began to filter down into the growing merchant and middle-class populace.

Interesting side note: The fish was so important to the history and development of Massachusetts, the state’s House of Representatives hung a wood carving of a codfish, known as the Sacred Cod of Massachusetts, in its chambers.

Historically, the codfish curing process started on board the cod fishing ships, where it was salted immediately. After reaching land, the fish was washed to remove all the salt and dried until dehydrated. The codfish drying process took place outdoors in the Algarve, on the South Bank of the Tagus, in Setúbal, Figueira da Foz, Aveiro and Viana do Castelo. It was generally a job performed by women.

We confess we haven’t tried making bacalhau at home — the de-salting process just feels too hard — but enjoy it a great deal when out and about. (One thing that a lot of immigrant Americans here have to get over is the idea that it’s going to be incredibly salty when the time comes to eat it. Sure, you can make it salty, but the salt that it is stored with all gets washed out during the hydration process – if it’s still salty at that point you aren’t done soaking it!) That said, here are two recipes we’ve been given by people who make fantastic versions of the dish. Using frozen (not salted) cod will get you the yummy food without the hassle.

Bacalhau Com Natas (Salted Portuguese Codfish with Cream)

This is a dish of shredded codfish layered with potatoes, fried onions, and cream, Baked, bacalhau com natas is usually served casserole-style with a broiled, crispy, topping of cheese. The cod tastes fresh and the flesh is tender and soft with a flavorful cream that just melts in the mouth.

Ingredients
1.5 lbs potatoes, peeled and cubed, about 1 inch/ 2cm
1.3 lbs cod fillets fresh or desalted
1 large white onion, peeled and sliced thinly
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
¼ cup olive oil (preferably Portuguese)
1 cup mozzarella cheese, grated
1 cup cream
salt and black pepper to taste
parsley fresh, chopped for garnish

For the bechamel sauce
½ cup unsalted butter
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 cups milk
salt and black pepper to taste
nutmeg, to taste

Instructions
Make the bechamel sauce:
Place cod in medium sized sauce pan and add milk. Cook the cod in the milk over medium heat for approximately 10 minutes. (Do not let the milk boil — it will taste burned. After ten minutes, strain the cod and set aside. Keep the cod-flavored milk.
Melt butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Immediately after the butter melts, add the flour, and stir until clumps form. Add the warm cod-flavored milk to the flour. Gently stir with a whisk until lumps disappear. Season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste.
Finish by beating the milk mixture until you get a creamy consistency. Remove pan from heat and reserve.
Make cod and potatoes:
Place the cod on your kitchen work space, and cut into medium pieces. Dry the potato cubes.
Pour olive oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it starts bubbling, add the onion and garlic, and sauté for about 5 minutes.
Add the dry cubed potatoes to the onion mixture. Cook, covered, for about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Add the cod pieces into the pan with the bechamel sauce and stir gently. Then add the potato mixture. Stir, and remove from heat.
Assemble the dish:
Mix cream and grated mozzarella cheese in a small bowl.
In a large baking dish, place the mixture of potatoes, cream, and cod.
Top with cream and grated mozzarella cheese.
Place in a preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes at 300°F /150°C. Remove from the oven when it looks golden on top.
Garnish with fresh parsley before serving.
Serves: 4

Note: This recipe needs to be done all at once as several components need to be warm.
If you are using salted cod, start preparing the recipe two days in advance. Start by rinsing the cod with a little running water. Then, place it inside an airtight container, with a lid. Fill the container with enough water to cover the cod at least partially. Keep it inside the fridge. Every six hours, remove the cod from the fridge, drain the water, and top up again with more freshwater. This process removes the salt from the cod. If you are using ready to cook cod fish pieces, start by thawing them out if they are frozen.

Bacalhau a Bras

This is a delightful combination of codfish stir-fried with potatoes and eggs.

Ingredients
1 lb salted codfish or fresh cod pieces
1 lb potatoes, peeled (or pre-cut shoestring potatoes)
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 eggs
15 black olives
2 cups olive oil (preferably Portuguese)
Salt and pepper, to taste
Fresh parsley finely chopped, for garnish

Instructions
Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Carefully add the desalted codfish to the boiling water. Reduce the heat to medium and let the codfish simmer in the boiling water for about 5 minutes. Carefully drain the codfish using a colander. Allow the codfish to cool before shredding it into small pieces using your hands or a fork. Set aside.
Prepare the shoestring potatoes: Cut potatoes lengthwise in thin strips to resemble matchsticks or shoestrings. Place the matchstick potatoes in water as you finish cutting them to prevent them from turning dark. Rinse the potato sticks in a colander under cold water until the water runs clear to remove excess starch. Dry.
In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Heat olive oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the potato sticks in batches until golden brown and crispy, about 2-3 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried potatoes to a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil. Set aside.
In the large skillet, add one tablespoon of olive oil and sauté the sliced onions until soft and translucent.
Add cooked shredded codfish and matchstick potatoes to the skillet. Cook for a few minutes until the codfish is cooked through and the potatoes are well mixed with the onions.
Pour the beaten eggs into the codfish and potato mixture in the skillet. Turn off the heat and gently mix everything together. Let the residual heat from the skillet cook the eggs until they are just set but still creamy.
Transfer the bacalhau à brás to a serving dish and garnish with chopped fresh parsley and black olives.
Serves: 4

Note: This recipe needs to be done all at once as several components need to be warm.
If you are using salted cod, start preparing the recipe two days in advance. Start by rinsing the cod with a little running water. Then, place it inside an airtight container, with a lid. Fill the container with enough water to cover the cod at least partially. Keep it inside the fridge. Every six hours, remove the cod from the fridge, drain the water, and top up again with more freshwater. This process removes the salt from the cod. If you are using ready to cook cod fish pieces, start by thawing them out if they are frozen.

One of the things we did was enjoy a cooking demonstration and meal organized by Food & Wine Experiences. We did think it was going to be more “hands-on” than it turned out to be, but it was nonetheless a lot of fun. And delicious! (As a bonus, Lisa knew all but two of the 14 people around the table, so it became a social event as well as lunch.)

Alongside a choice of two wines from Adega de Vila Real (the Reserva DOC Douro Vinho in either Tinto [red] or Branco [white]), our menu was:

• Favas com Enchidos: Deliciously seasoned fava beans with traditional Portuguese sausages.
• Pá de Porco Assada em Forno de Lenha: Tender, wood-fired pork shoulder served with golden potatoes, carrot rice and fresh greens.
• Castanhas Assadas: Celebrate with roasted chestnuts, a São Martinho classic.

We arrived at 11 am and greeted our hosts, Jose and Camille then went down into the kitchen & dining area. Before any food was served, Lisa knew this was going to be good because Camille was going to make everything on the “wood-fire.”

We learned that the very common greens were actually kale, making both of us change our minds about this previously disliked green. (It’s great when served in restaurants, we’d presumed they were spinach, maybe chard.) Adding shredded carrots to the rice is dead simple, and elevates a plain dish. The secret to the potatoes was to roast them almost to done, add some of the juices from the roast pork, then put them back in to finish. Superb. The pork was marinated for several hours before cooking for several hours and was fall-apart tender with an excellent crust.

It was also the first time we’d tried that (US holiday) classic, roasted chestnuts. We agreed they were rich and delicious with somewhat sweet, almost buttery flavor. (Lisa is now looking for chestnut flour to try making a traditional cake.)

Oh! we missed it last week, but November 11th is Dia de São Martinho, a day honoring Martin of Tours and we spent much of our Portuguese language class learning his story. It seems that Martin, a 4th-century Roman soldier-knight, was riding his horse in a snowstorm and came upon a nearly naked beggar. Moved to charity (as all good knights are) but not having any money or food, Martin took his sword, cut his cloak in half, and gave the cloth to the beggar. The fabric covered the beggar and the clouds dispersed, the sun came out, and Jesus said to the angels, “Here is Martin, the Roman soldier who is not baptized; he has clothed me.” Thus, he became a Saint.

Over the centuries this day has become a celebration of the harvest, specifically the maturation of the year’s wine production. In many Portuguese communities a large party is held with a bonfire (a magusto). Recently-harvested castanhas (chestnuts) are roasted and the first wines of the season are tasted. There is a saying as well, É dia de São martinho. Comem-se castanhas; prova-se o vinho! , which translates to “It is St. Martin’s Day. We’ll eat chestnuts; we’ll taste the wine.”

From the bizarre disembodied singing lips to the David Bowie-esque makeup, RHPS is a visual experience. When we found out that a couple of good friends had never seen it, a dinner party slash movie screening plan was born. If you aren’t aware, people don’t go to Rocky Horror to watch the movie, they go for the experience. Traditional chants and behavior have sprung up over the years, and it can be a very active moviegoing experience. Lisa went to many showings and even contributed a line to the audience participation. John went a couple of times. For both of us, however, this was in college, and memory is a cruel mistress. We did our best to prepare, so as to give our friends at least a taste of what puts the “Show” in “Rocky Horror Picture Show.”

First, the menu:

• Hot Patootie Bless My Soul ~ Pumpkin Sausage Wheels
• Wild and Untamed ~ Roasted Pears with Feta Cheese and Walnuts over Greens
• EDDIE!!!!! ~ Meatloaf with Mashed Potatoes and Citrus Roasted Carrots
• Absolute Pleasure ~ Rocky Road without marshmallows

We’re big fans of not spending too much time in the kitchen, away from our guests, so we made many parts prior to the day such as the puff pastry, Rocky Road, potatoes, and carrots. The Wheels were done in the morning, leaving only the meatloaf and pears to cook and everything else to reheat.

[Short aside: we really miss our US-sized oven.]

Our guests brought their preferred beverages and enjoyed their Hot Patooties while everything came together in the kitchen. The meal was great, with Wild and Untamed the unexpected star. It was Lisa’s first (homemade) meatloaf and while she thinks it needs tweaking, it turned out great. Dessert was at the couch, to be nibbled at will during the movie. (We were having so much fun, we forgot to take pictures of the meal!)

For those in the know . . . . we had props!

The newcomers were given newspapers and got them on their heads just before water misted through the air. Flashlights blinked on, rubber gloves snapped, and party hats worn. We drew the line at toilet paper and food being tossed. Nor did we try to recreate all of the audience lines, judging that too complicated for newcomers.

All in all, this was a ton of fun and we’d do it again.

Recipe Links:

• Hot Patootie Bless My Soul ~Pumpkin Sausage Wheels (We made our own puff pastry, used sausages from our local deli, substituted cheddar cheese and didn’t include the green onions.)
• Wild and Untamed ~ Roasted Pears with Feta Cheese and Walnuts over Greens (We added 1/2 – 3/4 teaspoon of fig jam to the hollow after the olive oil and before the cheese and walnuts. Salad greens were dressed with a vinaigrette. To serve, guests placed a pear half atop the greens.)
• EDDIE!!!!! ~ Meatloaf with Mashed Potatoes and Citrus Roasted Carrots (No bacon, and I would cut the crusts off the white bread if I make the meatloaf again. The potatoes were the most disappointing, kind of dry and the topping didn’t add much. The carrots were excellent! We didn’t have multi-colored ones, so just made a point of cutting them to the same size.)
• Absolute Pleasure ~Rocky Road (Lisa was the most worried about this tasting good, but it was a perfect adult dessert. A little nibbly, not too sweet, and unexpected with its cookies and pistachios. It also makes a LOT.)

We’re wrapping up tales of our trip to London. It turns out that we ate at interesting places more than we did just about anything else (… whoops?) so as we round third and head for home what we have to share are a collection of mini reviews for some of the places we ate while we were there. For example:

Beck’s Cafe is the kind of place we all want in our neighborhood. Good service, better food, large portions, and reasonable prices. What drew us was the promise of pancakes, and what they call jacket potatoes — Russets or baking in the U.S. J.’s breakfast was a classic: 2 hotcakes, 2 eggs, scrambled, with sausage patties and orange juice. He was in heaven. I went a different rout and ordered the jacket potato with sauteed mushrooms, onions, spinach, and cheese.

Something like this:

Yeah baby.

It was easily the biggest potato I’ve seen in my life, and covered with the veg. Perfect. I only ate half, and enjoyed the rest for lunch the next day. Add in a couple of fresh-squeezed orange juices, a latte for me, and the 15% service charge . . . the bill was a bit over US$50.

28 Red Lion St, London, United Kingdom

Cocoro Japanese Restaurant has several locations, we got delivery from the one in Marleybone. Cocoro was a nice change of pace for us in several ways. First, we hadn’t had any in the weeks we’d been in London already, second, the Japanese served at home focuses on sushi, a few commonly known appetizers (like gyoza), and sometimes with bits of other Asian cuisines thrown in. Teriyaki, yakitori, or katsu are unknown.

So, we went to town!

Chicken katsu, salmon teriyaki, miso soup, vegetable and prawn tempura, and gyoza all were ordered and consumed with great enjoyment. Total bill $55.

25 Coptic Street London WC1A 1NT

Recommend to us by our hosts as the best fish & chips in town, North Sea Fish Restaurant is just at the edge of our neighborhood, a very pleasant walk.

They are super busy, seemingly all day. Certainly we arrived a bit after their opening at 5pm and had to wait to be seated (although maybe it was more about a change of shifts, they seemed very low on staff). We were given menus . . . and then waited. No water. No order taking. Just a very long wait (about 15 mins). On the bright side, we knew exactly what we wanted when the waiter returned. We felt intimidated about asking questions, however, and I particularly felt rushed into choosing an item. Food didn’t take too long to get to us after that.

But it was oddly bland. Huge portion sizes — seriously large pieces of batter fried fish with large sides of chips (fries). But the fries were a lot more interesting than the fish, which at least didn’t tast fishy, just bland. Their onion rings were great. Fries are unlimited (the waiter made a big deal about that), so that’s great if you want to go to town on fries? With a glass of wine and soda, this was about $50.

Apparently they have a take out shop next door, and people say that’s the best place to go. Same food, fresh made, and half the price.

7/8 Leigh Street
London
WC1H 9EW

This post covers three places we really enjoyed, two a bit upscale and one that would easily be a “joint.”

Nostimo Mediterranean Gastronomy is a fancily named place that breaks two of my dining rules, normally a major warning sign, but the delicious food makes it so very worth it. We found it simply because it’s just down a bit from our grocery store and we were hungry. (The two broken rules were that there was a guy outside offering to set us at a table, and the menu had pictures of the food, not just text. I really wanted to leave, but . . . .Did I mention we were hungry?) So, with a bit of trepidation, we ordered. We started with the Fried Feta Cheese with Honey and Spanakotiropita. Then J. had the Pork Gyros (platter) and I had the Mixed Pork-Chicken Gyro.

We first had the feta dish (feta me meli) in Crete back in 2019, but it’s one of the most popular dishes in Greece. The combination of salty feta wrapped in crunchy filo pastry, alongside the nutty tang of sesame seed and silky honey is just a match made in heaven. Probably everyone knows about the traditional Greek spinach pie, and done well its delicious, as this was.

But, oh my the meat was incredible. Tender, tender, TENDER!!! Gloriously seasoned, moist, and DEE-licious. The bread was perfect, and the tzatziki rich. The portions are huge, it was a ton of food and we had leftovers enough for easily another meal.

Service was fantastic, and prompt. Highly recommended!

Brasserie Zedel is a Parisian brasserie with an Art Deco interior in Piccadilly. The reviews were good, and the interior reminded us of Paris, so off we went! It’s a truly gorgeous place, with a Hollywood-worthy bar, love music on weekends, a classic Parisian cafe, and an adults-only cabaret.

We were glad we had reservations, the place was packed! A high number of tourists was a bit worrying, and I would say that the prices and quality reflected a population that moves through rather than highly local. (That is, it was solid all around, but not outstanding. Also, they have two prix fixe lunch offerings — two courses for £16.95 or and three for £19.75– that would have dropped the price a bit. ) We settled in, and Lisa noticed they offered a chateauneuf-du-pape, and the simple lunch became an occasion. (It’s a wine nearly impossible to find in Portugal, and her favorite celebration wine. (Thanks to the Ryans. Hi Ryans!) We took our time perusing the menu, reminiscing over meals we’d previously eaten in France, and then ordered.

We started with onion soup (served in a classic lion’s head tureen) and garlicky (tender!) escargots. John then had the Steak Haché, a brasserie classic served replete with sauce au poivre et pommes frites. The meat was tender, the sauce silky and vibrant with pepper, the frites thin, crisp on the outside, tender in the center, and just the right amount of salty. Lisa had the sole meunière, hoping to create a Julia Child-esque moment. However, it fell flat being left on the bone and just a bit overcooked.

If you are in the Piccadilly area and looking for French food, Brasserie Zedel is a decent option, especially if you stick with the prix fixe option.

Finally, we have to talk about the glorious Ognisko Restaurant in the Polish Hearth Club. This is another place we discovered in 2022, following the bread crumbs of a mention in a blog . . . Founded in 1939 to maintain the cohesion of the free Polish community in the United Kingdom during the Second World War, the Polish Hearth Club is now a vibrant hub of social and cultural life for the Polish community. (Side track, 2024 is the 80th Anniversary of the Allied victory of the battle of Monte Cassino by the soldiers from the Polish II Corps under Generał Władysław Anders. Many veterans could not return to Poland as a result of the Yalta agreement and found their new home in the British Isles, partly because of the strength of this Club. As part of this Anniversary, Ognisko Polskie has created a series of podcasts which include interviews with veterans, historians and excerpts of diaries of those that fought in the battle.)

If you like Polish food, you will love it here. We started with a Peach Salad that included Feta Cheese, flakes of almond, and a pomegranate and peach dressing and the Grilled Polish Sausage served with Potato Salad. The peaches were a little under-ripe, but the overall concept of the salad was excellent. The sausage was fantastic! Smoky, rich, and perfectly grilled, the potato salad was a cool, creamy counterpoint that deepened the flavor. We moved on to Pierogi, filled with duck and dried fig, and Pelmeni, which are small dumplings filled with meat. Both were tender pockets of dough with delicious fillings. To balance things out, we get the side dish of “green vegetables” which varies seasonally — this time is was a blend of green cabbage and green beans with fresh herbs. A blast of flavor on the tongue. (Of special note, they make their own vodka, which we saw happily consumed by other patrons.) For us, this was plenty of food, although we wished we had room to try the Kaczka Pieczona (Roast Duck with Kasza, served with Apple Compote and Red Cabbage, served either half for two or whole for four people) or the Blinis (with Smoked Salmon, although you could get them with Caviar or Marinated Herring). In our previous visit we’d tried the Hot Smoked Salmon Salad with Beetroot, Cheese Pierogies, and Kaszanka (Black Sausage with caramelized Apples and sauteed Onion).

Highly Recommended!

When we arrived in London our hosts (clients? friends? the people who own the house we’re staying in, roll with us here…) did a fantastic job of getting our feet wet, giving us a little tour of a great market street and leading us to some truly fine eats. We were feeling very comfortable in general – plus the house made it easy get cozy – but once they left we still had a little bit of anxiety. Sure we were staying for practically three weeks, but we’re still in London. The options for culture and food and… well, everything are effectively infinite. As in, not actually, but you’ll die before taking it all in so mise well be. Feeling borderline overwhelmed with possibilities we spent a fair amount of time reading reviews and looking at maps, before realizing that there was simply no way to be certain about any of the possibilities, so for dinner that first night we ended up “throwing a dart” – family colloquialism for closing our eyes and picking something on the map randomly. Fortunately, Lisa never totally closes her eyes, and she hit a bullseye at The Life Goddess.

We love Greek food. It took being in Greece and eating nothing but local cuisine for nearly three weeks before we finally said we needed to try something (anything) else. Sadly, where we live now has no Greek food (although there are a ton of similar options in the doner kebab shops, its just not the same). We usually just make it at home, but when we saw The Life Goddess was a short walk, nothing could keep us from trying it. We are so glad we did, it’s a treasure. We started with some of the best hummus and pita we’ve had since Greece. Then Lisa had the beef stew “giovetsi” (braised beef in orzo with cheese and a tomato sauce), and John had a charcoal grilled fish over creamy arborio rice. Portions were generous and — be warned! — they do not do take away. So, if you don’t eat it, you can’t take home the leftovers. (We might bring our own containers next time.) Another restaurant we are looking forward to returning to again.

One of the things L. particularly likes to do when in the UK is have proper tea. Tea, as in high tea. Fancy serve ware displaying tiny sweet and savory morsels, accompanying hot tea, all to be consumed over a leisurely hour or three. This trip, we visited Dalloway Terrace, at the Bloomsbury Hotel. The Bloomsbury is a high-end hotel, but the tea is quite reasonable and makes a full meal. For 48pp you are served four types of sandwich: free range egg salad, roast beef with horseradish, cucumber and cream cheese, and harissa and apricot chicken. The classic sultana scone is joined by an Irish cheddar scone. The sweets layer was made up of an Earl Grey and blackberry dome cookie, lemon and poppy seed choux, pistachio and lemon Battenburg cake, peach melba tart, and a salted caramel madeleine. All of this is accompanied by unlimited tea or coffee. I’m not sure if this is true all the time, but we were offered more sandwiches and a takeaway carton for the sweets we couldn’t consume. In Lisa’s opinion, this was the best tea she’s had in all of her visits.

With our friend, S., we ventured out on a drizzly afternoon to a pub for what we think is the best beef wellington in London. I know, that seems outrageous in a city with (quickly checks) FIFTEEN Gordan Ramsey restaurants (about half of which serve this, his signature, dish). But the last time we were in London (in 2022), Lisa had a craving for it, but just couldn’t swallow spending £80 per person (easily) when she wasn’t sure she’d like it. So she dug around and found The Hemingway Pub.

Once again, this stripped down pub produced a superbly tender, richly flavored, and perfectly cooked filet of beef, wrapped in ham, slathered in mushroom pate, then covered with a flaky pastry crust. So many things can go wrong! Ah, but they didn’t. They don’t skimp on making this, so it’s a full 45 minutes from when you order before you eat, so be prepared to hang out. We shared some crispy pork belly steam buns and the courgette and Halloumi cake with a couple of ciders as we waited. (The menu changes frequently, with dishes reflecting the seasons.) Then the star arrived.

I gotta say,it tasted even better than it looks. Served with sauteed vegetables, hand cut chips, and a red wine jus, this remains one of the better steak moments we’ve ever had. Oh, and it’s £40 for the dish, which easily fed three people.

A little while back we talked about our aborted attempt to see Ian McKellen in “Player Kings”. When those plans fell through, we decided we’d make the most of it so we still wandered through the streets of London, washing ashore in the famous theatrical district in the West End. After all, our planned tickets might have been kiboshed but our dinner reservation was still valid and we’d been keen for that as well. So, we pitched up on the front step of J. Sheekey and headed in for a relatively leisurely meal; after all, no show to scurry off to after!

The decor of the restaurant is pretty typical (and pretty great!) for a restaurant smack dab in the middle of a theater district – photos spanning decades depicting the stars of the stage enjoying drinks and/or a meal on the premises. Some are timeless and instantly recognizable; others are clearly stars that burned brightly for a few years or maybe even just a production or two, but in the moment were worthy of memorializing. And now, you know… us. We started with drinks: a glass of Henriot Brut – Souverain champagne for me, and a (non alcoholic) Hive Mind for J. made of Everleaf Forest*, Chamomile, Agave, Vanilla, Lemon, Tonic Water. We took our time perusing the menu, chatting about the trip so far.

J. chose to start with the Burrata Di Bufala, Datterini Tomatoes, a creamy bubble of deliciousness with just the right amount of cracked pepper, bright olive oil, and just a hint of sea salt. Here’s a little tip – if there’s burrata on the menu, moving him off of it will be a task that makes you ask yourself if it’s even worth it – just let the man enjoy his creamy cheese for pete’s sake.

While I was tempted by the Heritage Beetroot Salad, I ended up choosing the Prawn Tempura. Six sticks of prawn in one of the best, crispy, tempura batters I’ve ever had. The prawns were sweetly tender, setting us up with high expectations for the seafood meal to come. (Speaking of convincing J. to move off of the burrata, after he tasted one of these he grudgingly conceded that I had “won” the first course!)

My main was the Fillet of Sea Bass, accompanied by steamed razor clam and a lemon and sea purlane sauce. Presented beautifully, the razor clams were nonetheless boring, but the sea bass was exquisite, its delicate flavor was balanced perfectly by the sauce. J. had the Monkfish & Tiger Prawn Tikka Masala which was rich and just a little bit spicy, just where we like it. (I bet you could ask for it to be as spicy as you desire.) Again, the monkfish and prawns were sweetly tender and not at all overwhelmed by the sauce. Impressive. I drank a delicious Florão (Quinta da Fonte Souto) from Portugal and enjoyed every drop.

Also worth mentioning is that J Sheekey now offers a set lunch menu. Starting at £33 for two courses (£39 for three), one can enjoy dishes like Buttermilk Fried Monkfish & Prawns, Roasted Fillet of Cod, and Miso Aubergine with Crispy Tofu. Based on our dinner, it would be a very tasty bargain and I’d be shocked if we don’t book it early the next time we make our way to London.

This was a superb meal in every way; highly recommended on every front! After dinner, we wandered a street whose name escapes us but could easily have been called “desserts of the world avenue”. Seriously, there was even a nata cafe. The variety didn’t really matter though; I’d spotted a great-looking gelateria and surprised J. with what has to be one his global favorites – a well-made scoop (or three ~ J) of Stracciatella. Thus sated, we indulged in a cab ride home. Considering the disappointment of the lost play it is the best praise possible that J. Sheekey turned it into a lovely evening out.

Our friends A&B have been raving about a meat-intensive utterly delicious restaurant in the hills just above Guimares. A bunch of us arranged cars and set out on a bit of an adventure.

The location is obscure, and our driver went back and forth a few times using Google, but we eventually found our way to the top of a mountain, Penha, and the Santuário da Penha. This is a popular place with locals, and some tour groups.

But if you walk just a wee ways down from there, you’ll see this sign:

Adega do Ermitão is a phenomenal cave, naturally formed, and used to store an excellent red green wine, served in a porcelain jug with individual clay bowls, and accompanied with a variety of grilled meat. an open-air tavern where the floor is made of natural granite, the ceiling is made of natural granite, and the walls (when there are any) are made of natural granite. The counter is carved out of a huge rock.

And the food is so, SO, good!

Not for vegetarians.

Go early-ish, because the people in the know are there for hours. At about 25 mins from Braga central, it’s a great mid-week day trip, especially in the warmer months. Bring some friends, the dog is welcome, and keep a lookout for the local (exceedingly friendly) cats.

Here’s a map to help you find your way.

(some images from the restaurant’s Facebook page)

I spent a month there and had the opportunity to try several places, both old favorites and new adventures.

Zuni is worthwhile just because it’s a good cross between fairly fine dining and very SF. The roasted chicken is famous and it’s been around for decades (I first had it back in the 90s). what I’m talking about is a whole bird cooked to snappy-crisp-skinned, juicy perfection in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven, served atop a currant-studded bread salad plump with drippings and brightened with a bitter-fresh scattering of greens and vinaigrette. It takes an hour to prepare, so you’ll have ample time to sample their Coast oysters and a truly perfect Caesar Salad.

Foreign Cinema is experientially fun fine dining. They play old movies (I saw A League of Their Own) without sound on the wall and you sit in a covered-ish outdoor space. I was a guest, so I can’t speak to the value of the meal, but everything I tried was perfectly cooked. The menu changes regularly, but I give them extra high marks for offering (my favorite) PNW oysters. Truly, it was good, but I don’t know that I would go back if I were paying on my own.

A particularly specific SF meal is the Mission Style Burrito. I grew up on El Faro, which was literally just down the street from where we lived for awhile, but they’ve fallen on hard times. (Note: the one located in SoMa claiming to be the first, isn’t. My link, above, goes to the place I’m talking about.) Everyone raves about El Farolito (24th and Mission), and with good reason. The Mission burrito is a legend unto itself, a flour tortilla, loaded with rice, beans, meat of choice, salsas, guac and sour cream, wrapped tightly and encased in a sheath of foil. I’m told that if you don’t want rice in your burrito, try La Taqueria (order it “dorado” for an extra crisp-up on the griddle post-roll).

Dim Sum is a food I love, and I had the pleasure of enjoying it several times during my stay. There’s nothing like a dim sum feast on a Sunday, alongside multi-generational families stretching the brunch hour deep into the afternoon. Hong Kong Lounge has classic offerings, like pork buns and shu mai, and basically everything is available for takeaway, so no one will know just how many buns you ate in one sitting. Just down the street is Dragon Beaux, which a lot of places are recommending, but I felt the quality wasn’t as good as the prices. They do *fancy* dim sum, which I think is high appeal to the young and restless, but (again) the quality wasn’t up to the hype. I also recommend Good Luck Dim Sum, it was as good as Hong Kong Lounge, but only for takeaway. The place is *tiny* and the lines are very long.

Turkish-based Lokma is a fairly recent (2018) welcome offering in the Outer Richmond that is open all day. Their delicious spreads — muammara, baba ganoush, and tzatziki — arrive on warm pita and are perfectly seasoned. Their burger, a combination of beef and lamb, is juicy and delicious. I also recommend their chicken sandwich, which is a grilled thigh.

Crustacean or Thanh Long (they are sibling restaurants) for Garlic Noodles and lovely roasted crab with butter and herbs. No need to dip the crab in extra butter, it comes that way, rich and savory! I also loved the fried calamari with salt & pepper alongside a spicy mayonnaise sauce.

Pacific Cafe offers sustainably caught seafood in a neighborhood joint, beloved by locals. With a whole crab — sauteed with garlic and coming with bread and a salad — running about $38, it’s also a massive bargain for such high quality food.

Double Rainbow Ice Cream started in the Castro in 1976, producing some of the best ice cream in America. (I don’t just think that — they’ve won a ton of awards.) After a struggle to keep their place open in the Castro, they’ve recently returned with yummy offerings. (There are several stores around SF and in California, they are franchises.)

b.patisserie is amazing. I ordered a latte and one of their famous kouign amman pastries (pronounced: queen aman), which was buttery and crispy and utterly perfect. One of the best pastries I’ve had outside of Paris.

Tastebuds is a “soul food inspired” cafe offering massive portions at very good prices. Milkshakes and smoothies, fried chicken waffles and burgers, hearty scrambles and shrimp and grits . . . everything is perfectly prepared. Seriously, the fried chicken and waffles are a dream, with chicken served perfectly crackly on the outside, and buttermilk waffles offered up with butter and syrup like a dream. My dining companion had the green salad with steak and it was HUGE, easily enough for two meals. The steak was tender and perfectly medium-rare.

Total Tourist but Worth It

The Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista Cafe, for example, is a modern marvel of coffee, fresh cream and Irish whisky. It’s well worth a visit to watch the skilled bartenders seamlessly batch and craft a line of coffees with choreographic precision, made better by the fact that the just-sweet-enough (and just-spiked-enough) drinks are in fact, delicious. There’s no better cure for a damp winter (or summer’s day).

All of the beef at Harris Steakhouse. In a city seemingly committed to vegetable dishes, one of the best, and most beloved restaurants in the city has a never-changing menu and centers around beef. Really, really, good beef. One of the best Filet Mignon steaks I’ve ever eaten was here, more than 30 years ago; it was just as delicious on my recent trip. That level of consistency is worth celebrating.